The costume designer for Lupin names exactly one brand: the Air Jordan 1. The coat that every replica site sells you is described in her own words as a French army overcoat — unbranded, surplus. And the Queen's necklace, the object the entire first season turns on, has no jeweller at all.
That is the whole honest answer, and it is very different from what the first page of search results will tell you.
The one brand that is confirmed
Costume designer Camille Janbon has spoken about modernising the look, and in that interview she names a single product: the sneakers.
"Ces baskets un peu iconiques, ce sont les premières Air Jordan."
"Those slightly iconic sneakers — they're the first Air Jordans."
So: Nike Air Jordan 1, on Assane Diop. No colourway is specified, and no show-specific release exists. The shoe is one of the most widely available sneakers on earth, which makes this the easiest item on the page to actually buy.
A sourcing note we should make. The interview we could read does not cite its own source; the apparent original is a French newspaper piece from October 2023 that we could not load directly. The quote is consistent across the versions we found, but if you want the primary, it is that newspaper rather than the aggregators.
The coat: army surplus, and that is the answer
Here is the finding that matters, because an entire category of website depends on you not knowing it.
Janbon describes the coat only as "un grand manteau de l'armée française" — a large French army coat. Not a brand. Not a designer. Military surplus.
She describes the cap the same way: "une casquette assez particulière" — a rather particular cap. No maker named.
And she names no watch at all. If you find a page identifying Assane's watch, that identification did not come from the costume department.
So what should you buy? Genuine French army surplus. It is sold by surplus dealers across Europe, it costs a fraction of what the replica sites charge, and it is the actual category of garment rather than an approximation of one.
What you should not buy is a "Lupin coat" from one of the made-to-order outerwear sites that dominate this search. There is a network of them selling versions of the same jacket, and several state or imply a brand provenance that does not exist. You are paying a premium for a fabricated attribution.
The necklace: nobody made it
The Collier de la Reine drives the entire first season, so people reasonably assume a jeweller was involved.
No maison was. Not Cartier, not Chaumet, not anyone. We could find no production credit, no prop-maker, no jewellery house attached to the screen necklace in any source.
What does exist is thorough coverage of the historical necklace — the real 1785 piece made by Charles-Auguste Boehmer and Paul Bassenge, whose theft became the affair the show borrows from. That article is about the eighteenth-century object and contains zero production credits.
Which means the necklace you see on screen was made for the production by people nobody has named. That is common; what is uncommon is how confidently other pages assert otherwise.
The nearest thing you can actually own
If the object appeals rather than the provenance, there is a genuinely good answer, and it comes from the right place.
The Château de Versailles' own boutique sells a Collier double rang Perles de la Reine at €59 — a glass-pearl reproduction of an eighteenth-century court necklace, made by Les Néréides for the château. The page states it ships within France, the EU and worldwide.
Be clear about what that is. It is not the screen necklace and it is not a reproduction of the diamond necklace. It is a period-appropriate piece sold by the palace the story is set around, for the price of a nice dinner. As a way to own something real from that world, it beats a replica of a prop nobody has documented.
The one official collaboration, and it is gone
Lupin × Musée du Louvre was real: an eight-piece capsule — tees, hoodies, caps and a few home-decor items — curated by a streetwear publication and sold exclusively through one retailer, released 18 June 2021 to coincide with Part 2 and the pyramid sequence.
It is finished. The retailer's brand page still loads with the collection blurb, but no products render. Treat it as an archive page.
And Netflix sells nothing. We checked the platform's own shop: the Lupin collection returns an empty product list. There is no official Lupin merchandise programme at all.
How to buy army surplus without getting the wrong thing
Since this is the actual answer, it deserves more than one line.
What you are looking for is a French military greatcoat — long, heavy wool, usually a muted dark blue-grey or khaki depending on era and service. Surplus dealers list these by pattern and year rather than by style name, which is why they never surface in a fashion search.
Three practical things:
Sizing is not modern sizing. Military garments are sized to a chest measurement over a uniform, so they run large through the body and short in the sleeve relative to a civilian coat of the same nominal size. Buy on the actual chest and length measurements the seller lists, never on S/M/L.
Condition language means something specific. "Grade 1" is close to unworn, "Grade 2" is used but sound, and below that you are buying something to repair. A greatcoat that has been in storage for decades will smell of it — that washes out; moth damage does not.
Weight is the point and also the problem. These coats are genuinely heavy, because they were made to keep a person warm standing still outdoors. On screen that weight is exactly what makes the silhouette work. In daily life it is a lot of coat, and worth knowing before you commit.
Expect to pay a fraction of the replica price. Surplus is priced as surplus. That is the entire arbitrage this article is describing.
Why the search results are so bad for this show
Worth explaining, because it is unusually stark here.
The searches — "Lupin coat," "Assane Diop jacket" — carry real volume and clear buying intent. But the truthful answer is "unbranded military surplus," which sells nothing.
So the pages that rank are made-to-order outerwear sites, which need a brand story to justify the price. When the costume department has not provided one, they supply their own. That is how a French army greatcoat becomes a branded product with a confident description.
The Air Jordan is the exception, and notice why: it is the one item where the truthful answer happens to also be a purchasable product.
What we would do
- The Air Jordan 1 — the only confirmed item, and available everywhere. No colourway is specified, so buy the one you like.
- A real French army surplus overcoat — the actual category of garment, from a surplus dealer, at a fraction of replica prices.
- The €59 Versailles necklace, if the object is what appeals. It is sold by the palace, it is a genuine period reproduction, and it ships worldwide.
- Nothing from a "Lupin coat" replica site. The brand story they are selling does not exist.
FAQ
What brand is Assane Diop's coat in Lupin? None. Costume designer Camille Janbon describes it as a French army coat — military surplus, with no brand named. Any page identifying a maker is inventing one.
What sneakers does he wear? Nike Air Jordan 1. Janbon names them directly: "those slightly iconic sneakers — they're the first Air Jordans." No colourway is specified.
What watch does he wear? The costume designer names no watch. We could find no sourced identification.
Who made the necklace? Nobody has said. No jewellery house is credited for the screen necklace in any source we could find. The historical 1785 necklace was made by Charles-Auguste Boehmer and Paul Bassenge, but that is the real object the story borrows from, not the prop.
Is there anything necklace-like I can buy? Yes — the Château de Versailles boutique sells a glass-pearl reproduction of an eighteenth-century court necklace, made by Les Néréides, at €59, shipping worldwide. It is a period piece, not the screen necklace.
Was there ever official Lupin merchandise? One collaboration: an eight-piece Lupin × Musée du Louvre capsule released in June 2021 through a single retailer. Its page still loads but no products remain.
Does Netflix sell Lupin merchandise? No. The platform's own shop returns an empty Lupin collection.
Why do so many sites sell a "Lupin coat"? Because the honest answer — unbranded army surplus — sells nothing, while a branded jacket does. Made-to-order outerwear sites fill the gap with attributions the costume department never made.